By MARION BARNES
jbrns@clemson.edu
With temperatures in the mid to high 90’s and the high humidity level that is so common of the summer months in the Lowcountry, planning a fall garden may not be in the minds of many home gardeners. As spring-planted vegetables mature and production begins to wane, it’s time to get started with gardening plans if you want fresh vegetables for the fall and winter months. A little work and planning ahead in the summer will improve and extend your harvest season in the fall.
Before tilling up those summer vegetables that are past their prime, make a few notes about which varieties performed well, what pests were a problem, the sites of any herbicides used in case of plant-back restrictions and carry-over, and the location of various summer crops to aid in rotation practices for next year.
Remove summer vegetable plants and discard or till them under to add organic matter to the soil. Avoid using plants that have disease in a compost pile.
Keep warm season weeds from going to seed, so you don’t have to fight even more weeds next summer. Insect species often overwinter on some weed species, so keep pests out of the garden by keeping weeds out.
Fall vegetable crops are categorized as long-term and short-term crops, their growing period depending on their cold tolerance and the date of the first killing frost. Some long-term crops include broccoli, cabbage, collards, kale, lettuce, mustard, onions and turnips to name just a few. Although considered warm season crops, some can be planted in late summer and harvested prior to frost and are referred to as short-term crops for fall gardens. They include snap beans, butter or lima beans, southern peas, squash, tomatoes and peppers.
Generally, fall crops tend to do better when started from transplants rather than seed. Always use transplants when growing tomatoes and peppers. Purchase the largest transplants available. Larger transplants cost more; however, their root systems will spread faster and the plants will produce more fruit sooner.
If you plan to start with seed, leftover seed from spring planting may be used in fall gardens if they have been stored in a cool, dry location or in a freezer or refrigerator. Check maturity dates listed on seed packets to see if your crops will have enough time to mature before frost. Check for the estimated annual frost date for your area and count back on the calendar the number of days it will take for your plants to mature. Many vegetable planting guides list estimated maturity dates for vegetable crops and recommended planting dates for both spring and fall.
South Carolina summers are hot and dry. Some soil types can form a crust that will inhibit germination of small seeded crops. Cool season vegetables such as lettuce will not germinate at temperatures above 85 degrees F.
Be sure to keep the soil moist until seedlings have emerged and provide adequate irrigation to prevent young seedlings from drying out. Newly transplanted seedlings will also benefit from regular light waterings until they have had a chance to develop adequate root systems. Avoid over-watering to help prevent problems like “damping off,” a fungal disease.
Fertilizing fall planted crops can be challenging. It’s common to rotate crops by replacing one crop with a different type of crop to help suppress soil-borne insects and diseases. If a heavy-feeder crop like sweet corn is followed in the fall by a light-feeder crop like southern peas, there very well may be some residual soil fertility to reduce the fertilizer needed by the fall crop. On the other hand, if a heavy-feeder crop follows a light-feeding crop, you will need to supply a complete fertilizer before planting.
It’s not uncommon for insects to be more abundant during the fall, since they have all spring and summer to build up populations. Keep a sharp eye out for pests like stinkbugs, squash and pickle worms, fall army worms and other foliage feeding caterpillars by scouting vegetables on a regular basis.
If you find it necessary to control insect infestations with a pesticide, first make sure you have properly identified the pest. Many pest control failures are the result of improper pest identification and the application of the wrong pesticide. Next select the appropriate pesticide material for the pest in question and the crop intended for treatment. Read and follow all directions on the pesticide label including application timing and rates, reentry intervals, preharvest intervals, required personal protection equipment (such as gloves, long sleeved shirts and long pants, etc.) and proper disposal of empty pesticide containers.
Pesticide labels contain a wealth of information intended for the safe application of pest control products. Remember the label is the law. Insects pose an even greater challenge to organic gardeners who choose not to use pesticides have fewer control options.
South Carolina’s long growing season and usually mild winters afford gardeners the opportunity to grow fresh vegetables throughout the entire year. So, if you have some freezer space or just want fresh vegetables for the table during the winter months, consider starting a fall garden.
Be sure to check out the Clemson Extension Home Garden Information Center and download a copy of the fact sheet, “Planning for Fall Garden Success….Now.”
For more information on growing vegetables in the home garden contact the Clemson Extension Office, 843-549-2595.
